A portrait of Masataka Taketsuru, who is celebrated in his homeland as the father of Japanese whisky.Asahi Group/Supplied
Even though Masataka Taketsuru, the founder of Nikka Whisky, died in 1979, his name comes up often during encounters with staff at the Yoichi distillery in Hokkaido. Workers are quick to praise Taketsuru’s inspiration to their approach to whisky-making.
Then again, his influence might be hard to escape considering the house he shared with wife Rita is preserved on-site as a museum. Taketsuru’s suits hang in the bedroom closet. His pipe rests on the table beside his favourite chair in the living room, as if awaiting his return.
Upgrades and innovations have been made to the distillery built in 1934 on Japan’s northernmost island – especially on the hospitality side of the operation, with a restaurant and tasting rooms that opened to the public in 2021 – but production methods stay true to Taketsuru’s vision for a top-quality Scotch-like Japanese malt. It’s a labour of love.
As a result, Nikka continues to impress whisky lovers and collectors because they manage to maintain a craft distillation approach even as production levels increase to meet global demand.
Yoichi’s stills are fuelled by coal fires stoked by attentive workers sporting branded blue tracksuit uniforms, which contribute a Wes Anderson vibe to the scene. The high temperatures of the direct-fire process contribute a rich texture and aroma to the spirit that’s different than ones produced from conventional temperature-controlled pot stills heated by steam. More hands-on work takes place in the cooperage, where a skilled team maintains the barrel collection, meticulously repairing and recharring casks to be filled and racked in one of the site’s storage warehouses.
Nikka Yoichi in Hokkaido, Japan's northernmost island.Asahi Group/Supplied
When Taketsuru oversaw construction of Nikka’s second distillery, Miyagikyo, in 1969, he embraced a desire to do things differently. There are different styles and shapes of stills, with different heating methods, to ensure production of whiskies with a different character. That way, Nikka’s blenders could create single malts from each distillery as well as an innovative range of different blended malts.
To honour Nikka’s 90th anniversary in 2024, the blending team took a stab at capturing Taketsuru’s legacy in liquid form.
The limited-edition Nikka Nine Decades is a blend of more than 150 components – with distilling dates spanning from the 1940s to 2020. The final blend includes some of the earliest whiskies produced from the Yoichi and Miyagikyo distilleries. It also contains whisky from Nikka’s Scottish distillery, Ben Nevis and other production facilities to touch on all aspects of the company’s evolution. (The inclusion of Scotch whisky means Nine Decades is bottled as a world whisky.)
In a press release, Nikka chief whisky blender Hiromi Ozaki explains, “I selected whiskies with outstanding characteristics among our reserves for this blend.”
At home, Taketsuru is celebrated as the father of Japanese whisky. Working at a sake brewery, the 24-year-old was offered a work-study trip in 1918 to Scotland to learn about whisky production. During his travels, he studied organic chemistry at the University of Glasgow and apprenticed at three distilleries before returning to Japan in 1920 to help establish the country’s first malt-whisky operation, Yamazaki Distillery in Osaka.
After 10 years working for Yamazaki’s owner, Suntory, Taketsuru’s entrepreneurial spirit led him to launch Nikka in 1934. His whisky dreams developed as he established a business selling apple juice, cider and apple wine to raise capital. A fictionalized account of these early years would inspire a Japanese television series, Massan, which was broadcast in 2014 and 2015.
Under the control of Asahi Group Holdings, Nikka’s portfolio has expanded from early labels such as Special Blended Whisky, Black Nikka and Super Nikka to a core range of single malts and blended whiskies. There are also limited-edition bottlings, including single-cask and age-declared blends and single malts to explore.
The production of the anniversary blend was capped at 4,000 bottles, according to the distillery. Bottles were allocated to liquor stores in British Columbia, Alberta, Quebec and Ontario, where 12 bottles will be available this month. The suggested retail price is $2,999.95. But you don’t need to invest that much to experience Nikka’s pioneering spirit. Here are three labels to savour.
Nikka From The Barrel Whisky (Japan), $65.15/500 ml
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One of Nikka’s flagship labels, From the Barrel is a blended whisky that offers appealing flavour and complex character. Whiskies from the Miyagikyo and Yoichi distilleries are included in different expressions, including spirits aged in bourbon barrels, sherry butts and older casks. (There is also some Scotch whisky in the final blend.) It has the floral and orchard fruit notes common to Japanese whisky, with rich honey and oak-derived spice notes. Enjoy on the rocks or as the base of a whisky sour or high ball. Available at the above price in Ontario, $67.99 in British Columbia, various prices in Alberta, $69.99 in Manitoba, $67.75 in Quebec.
Nikka Miyagikyo Single Malt (Japan), $94.95
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This fruity and flavourful single malt, which offers a satisfying mix of orchard and citrus fruit flavours with floral, spice and nutty notes, was created as a counterpoint to Yoichi’s bold and rich style. The blend benefits from a mix of unpeated and peated malt and bourbon and sherry cask-aged whiskies. Bottled at 45 per cent ABV, without any age statement. Enjoy on its own or use it as a base for an old fashioned or other whisky-forward cocktails. Available at the above price in Ontario, $95.99 in British Columbia, various prices in Alberta, $99.99 in Manitoba, $97.25 in Quebec.
Nikka Whisky Yoichi Single Malt (Japan), $94.35
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The single malt from Nikka’s original distillery offers more robust character thanks to peat smoke, spice and salty notes that add depth and richness to the mix of ripe fruit (pear, apple), floral and earthy notes. Bottled at 45 per cent ABV, without any age statement, this displays the fruity and peated whisky style that founder Masataka Taketsuru admired during his travels in Scotland. Enjoy neat or over a large piece of ice. Available at the above price in Ontario, $95.99 in British Columbia, various prices in Alberta, $99.99 in Manitoba, $97.25 in Quebec.